Suave, American-accented and half-French, Erwan Heussaff stuck out in Basilan and Tawi-Tawi, just two of the places off the beaten track he’s gone to explore the world of Philippine cuisine.
“I get frustrated sometimes with the monochromatic view that we have of Filipino food and culture,” the food vlogger tells Howie Severino, explaining his travels to remote corners of the archipelago to experience unfamiliar flavors and meet locals who cook.
Unlike celebrated chefs who introduce Filipino food to international audiences through their fusion creations, Heussaff does it through stories.
From the “Erwan-centric” food vlogs typical of this personality-driven genre, his work has evolved to become deeply researched documentaries on such topics as the making of artisanal salt in Bohol, the subtle differences between varieties of ube, and the preparation of a wedding feast in a Cordillera mountain village.
His stories have informed legislation to preserve heirloom salts and created a so-called “Erwan effect” on local establishments he features.
The prestigious James Beard Foundation took notice of his approach to food stories and gave Heussaff its top award this year for social media, beating food content creators from around the world.
In a candid and wide-ranging conversation, Erwan and Howie talk about Christmas overeating, a myth about taho, and the three dishes he would recommend to a newbie to Filipino food.
And he shares how he feels when people on the street forget his name and refer to him simply as “asawa ni Anne Curtis.”